What you need to know to get started with mechanical watches
1Maintenance is not a warranty. Warranty refers to the repair service provided by the manufacturer for incomplete functions caused by quality problems. Generally, it is free during the warranty period. Maintenance refers to the maintenance of daily wear and tear, such as degaussing, accuracy testing, waterproof testing, movement oil washing, case polishing and refurbishment, strap service, etc. The general maintenance service fee is disclosed on the official website. The basic movement oil cleaning and maintenance is almost 8~12% of the public price. For example, the single price of Longines three-needle oil cleaning and maintenance is $180. The 8-pin moon phase structure is more complicated, and the repair and maintenance costs are much more expensive than the third-year needle.
The maintenance cycle (machine oil washing) is generally about 5 years. This refers to the cycle of wearing or putting it in the watch shaker every day. If there are many watches, they will be worn for one week every month, and the other three weeks will stop running. In this case, the maintenance cycle can be extended several times. Some people say that no maintenance for 20 years may be a long-term non-working state. Of course, the maintenance cycle may also be shortened. For example, after washing and soaking in water, the interior is damp. In this case, it is recommended to do maintenance immediately.
The most important accessories are watch straps. The common ones are steel straps, belts, rubber straps, nylon straps, etc. The original straps are more expensive, usually 10%~20% of the public price. Longines straps There are $230~$600. The steel belt is suitable for almost all occasions, with outstanding advantages, and it can also be polished and refurbished. However, the shortcomings of the steel belt are also obvious. It is a bit dazzling in social occasions. It is easy to collide and get injured in sports occasions. It is too cold in winter and its weight cannot be ignored. The belt is comfortable and has a lot of changes in accessories. The disadvantage is that it is easy to absorb sweat and smell. It needs to be replaced every 6 to 12 months.
4. Travel time error
Because of the difference in principle, there are different requirements for the accuracy of different types of watches. Generally speaking, the error (faster or slower) of a quartz watch is less than one second per day, and the error of a mechanical watch is less than ten seconds per day. There is still a position error in a mechanical watch. The time error of wearing it in the hand is not the same as the time error when it is placed flat on the table or placed on the side. Therefore, using the daily difference to express the accuracy refers to the average value in 24 hours a day, or the cumulative error value of 24 hours of daily wear.Generally, the new watch will go faster when it leaves the factory. It may become stable after a month, and it will slow down after a few years. If it is more than 30 seconds slower a day, this is a signal that maintenance is required, and it is recommended to go to the service center for consultation and inspection.
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